Sunday, May 31, 2009

race to the finish

I eneded up buying a new ticket that departed this morning at 8:30 from siem reap to KL. Upon my arrival (while still in a dazed state), I recharged my old malaysian sim card and called Farshad. Luckily, he was nearby, at a place called sepang(sp?). This is where they hosted the F! race - he was at the Asian Festival Of Speed (AFOS). So he came and picked me up, we packed my bags in the back, and the first thing I did in malaysia was sneak into the race car pits. We checked out souped-up lamborghini's and Ferraris, etc. I'm not really a car person, and I've never seen a race before - this was great. The best was that I got to walk around as if I was a media person, hanging out with riyaz and farshad's buddy Sabri (coincidence? I think not!), who owns a small race company. I felt the engines of the cars start when I was three floors up! We were also beside the scantily clad party girls and the dj booth. What a random arrival!

There was also a drifting competition on the side - which alternated between amazing and ridiculous, as any and all takers were allowed to try their hand at a small course laid out with cones. I might one day get into this motorsport business. We also met iranian guys representing a racecar sponsor who gave us free non-alcoholic malt drink things.

Then I went to Farshad's place, helped him with some grocery shopping - where I purchased some guava's on steriods.

Great day. Pictures and videos will come up soon!
and by soon I mean after I get out of the training.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Failport.

An inspired haiku about life while traveling:

traveling people,
make sure you have your passport.
(before leaving home)


:(

To Malaysia again!

I am writing from the hotel del la Paix in Siem Reap, the first stop on my way back to Malaysia!

I'm here with Elyssa, Quddus, and Theary...with Avuth joining us when he arrives. I only wrote to tell yout that I will likely not be posting on the blog while travelling, instead, Karim will fill in detials of his trip, and perhaps, his imaginings of what my travels are like!

peace!

Thursday, May 28, 2009

Day and Night

Definitely one of the longest and most productive day+nights I've had in a while. I'm knocking off old assignments from CCFSA as we speak (not what they intended I'm sure) and I managed to run an annual planning workshop for CORDE staff and Master's students! I was happy with the results, and now can only hope they'll finsih their assignments and finish the plan. I am damn lucky to have a dad who knows this stuff inside and out, he's been like the wikipedia of development for me since I've arrived in this country. Soon, I will be on my way to the commemoration of the ascention of Baha'u'llah...which I managed to also make a program for, and hand off to the team before buckling down to work some more. Crazy, and I love it!

so much fun, so little sleep.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Guavas

I was hunting for guavas for the last two weeks, asking everywhere, and repeatedly being told that they're around, but not in season. Then, this morning, one of the p-units came in and gifted me three magically delicious guavas!

I'm seriously running out of small-time wishes to be fulfilled.

Age catches up with me

Yesterday morning, as I knelt down in front of a broken computer, I felt a strange twinge in my back. Since then, I've had some rough lower-back pain...I feel like I'm 80!

I got to join a book one with Melvene, Elyssa, and Elyssa's friend Tammy. It's been such along time since I went through the material - it was nice to just refresh on the basics of the ruhi institute. We had a great time trying to formulate four questions per short quotation, e.g.

"The betterment of the world can be accomplished through pue and goodly deeds, through commendable and seemly conduct."

Q.1. How can the betterment of the world be accomplished
Q.2. What will be accomplished through pure and goodly deeds, through commendable and seemly conduct?
Q.3. uh...wait wait, I can think of one...What, in addition to pure and goodly deeds is required for the betterment of the world?
Q.4.oh man, there's nothing left...
melvene: we're not moving on until you think of a question
Q.4. ...hmm...The betterment of what thing will be accomplished through pure and goodly deeds, through commendable and seemly conduct?

As you can see, we had to stretch ourselves towards the end - fun times though! We held it in a place called "madison square" which is a really uninviting new restaurant that serves great pancakes. It has a motorcyle on the roof. Yes, it is as strange as it sounds. oh, it also projects khmer music videos onto the wall of the building across the street. RANDOM!

I am incredibly behind in my work, but life is as sweet as the coconut water I drink every morning.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Coconut

I could not sleep last night. Eventually I did, but I was in a strange and unusual sleepless state till 3 or 4am - it almost felt like I was in university again! I dreaded, for a few seconds, the kind of havoc this could wreak on my morning, and perhaps *gulp* entire day! Though I missed, to my chagrin, dawn prayers with sheng-tchie; and though I came late to work - I did end up enjoying a nice coconut and some conversation with Oudum, whom, as a result of our conversations, decided to join ruhi book one! Overall, I will chalk down my random lack of sleep (and ensuing delays) as a victory rather than a loss or failure.

Now, on to the CCFSA final project!

Hope your nights are sleepless, and mornings fruitful (mine are full of coconut)!

Ash.

May tweny fi

One of the p-units made it up to battambang to teach a research methods class at uniED today. I hear she's whipping the students into shape, getting them in the right gear to complete their mandatory final-year thesis projects. Ah, poor souls.

on the flip side, today I ate breakfast at Sunrise Cafe with InterLashional; had some efficient meetings, got some more work done on my CCFSA final project (which I have failed to complete on time...due date = today); got a new computer (aka CORDE bought a new desktop to use as a server, and I get to babysit it until they find a permanent location:) ); had a coconut and sugar-cane juice; hung out with Enoch; ate an effervescent vitamin C (which was waaay more exciting than it sounds!) - all in all a good time.

Now I get to go shop in the market and then cook some supper, and maybe play a game of settlers of Catan - if urbody is down.

Oh wait, the market.

You see, in Battambang, people speak less english than in phnom penh. This is great, I think it's excellent that I get a chance to really learn Khmer, BUT, it is a complex and dangerous game in the market context. Observe Ashraf Rushdy, a friendly, well-dressed foreigner. Observe Market Ladies, less than 50% honest, and already holding masters degrees in developing countries' dual economies.

In this scenario, I posses a 50% chance of being ripped off at every stall I buy from, or maybe for every item I buy. This could be incredibly expensive except for one factor. They don't know if I know Khmer. In this game of limited information, I can force their hands, and make them charge the right price, as long as I can pass for speaking khmer, and generally knwoing the price of a fruit or vegetable.

I have mastered this with a few short phrases (this may become a video blog post).
how much is this/one kilo of this = ni pun man? muoy kilo pun man?
yes = Baat
no = Atay
Thank you = Aukuhn Chran

It is AMAZING what kind of equalizing power these four can give you. The ony time I encountered a problem as when the chicken lady started asking me personal questions the third time I went by. So now one of the \m knows for sure than I don't knwo Khemr. Luckily, she's on my side.

a sample market experience using the four essentials:

me: Ni 'man? (this one how much?)
her: RANDOM NUMEBR I HAVE NO IDEA HOW MUCH THEY SAY
me: baaat, baat, bat....bai (three, as in, I'll take three of them)

me: muoy kilo 'man?
her: ANOTHER RANDOM NUMBER!
me: baat.. mouy kilo.

her: random non-price-related words.
me: atay, aukuhn.

when I have everything I want from one stall: pun man?
her: random number.
me: 5 dollar bill.
her: make some change.
me: auhukn chran!

hope you learned how to shop like a master in a foreign market!

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Where are the words?

They are all in my pictures.

I have been less inclined to write as a result of the battambang internet. I really liked uploading photos, and documenting life, and sharing it with all my friends and family. You see, even my hampered ability to upload a photo has reduced my photo-taking, which has in turn reduced the amount of attention I pay to my own doings, which has, as a result, reduced my ability to write about such things.

I have had lots of fun hanging out with Enoch. We made a "Roti-Hunter" video, in which I sat on the back of the moto and filmed our travels around battambang to find a guy who makes roti (video hopefully coming soon).

I taught a macro-economics class for Elyssa. This was good as well. I realized that, much as I dislike the administration of teaching, I really enjoy teaching itself! The class basically consisted of us studying a talk by Dr. Arbab about true prosperity. I learned a lot, since I had never read the document before, and because of the different ideas that the students threw out. The ideas of creating a new economics-creating new goals for wealth and finance, is brilliant, and should really be a focus around this time of economic crisis. If you want to know more about the talk and the principles, just ask, and I will happily dedicate a post to it.

I have a beard. This may be featured in pictures that I upload, if a suitable connection/computer combo can be found...haha, and just now - 7:30 - the internet guys are closing up...ughh.

Friends, it may be time to get internet at home.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Business and other business


Business, small-business, entrepreneurship - been on my mind for a while. The first idea in Cambodia, as our avid, original readers know, was the fabled "Look-Look at my tuk-tuk" tuk-tuk company. Lacking funds, market research, drivers, and the inclination, this venture never left the planning stages (and truly, never even entered the realm of 'the possible'). There is, however, a new idea; a shining beacon of hope on the small-business horizon. I won't say what it is quite yet, (though the observant among you may know already), but it could be very sweet.

This master's program keeps getting delayed, but that's ok, I have been told I was a little too excited and gung-ho when I started off, and really need to let the program grow organically instead of jumping in with the NOS on....so I will. Lets see what happens.

Yesterday I started reading "The Quest for Meaning" by Oswald Hanfling...so far it's all right. He's not making any big claims or anything, just going through and refuting both people's claims to meaning, and claims against. In the second chapter, for example, he emphatically disagress with Shopenhauer's assertion that "life is pain", or that pain and sadness are the positive realities, and happiness and helath are the lack of the former. Somehow, I got thorugh philosophy not reading any SHopenhauer (that I can remember), and reading his views sheds some light on my philosophy/comp-lit friends.

As a quick aside, in most western universities, Comparative Literature is really just another name for Continental Philosophy.

Last night I finally finished ruhi-book-6 with Seng-Tchie...I'm really tempted to make him a certificate and frame it or something.

This morning, the 19th of may, I met Seng-tchie for the second of what we hope to be regular dawn-prayers. It's nice to wake up with the sun, and I enjoy starting my day by renewing my spiritual focus. Really, nuch of life is perspective, and that's part of why saying me prayers in the morning and at night are so critical - the constant renewal of perspective.

After showering, etc. I decided to go grab breakfast (my usual coconut). While enjoying the suppple meat of a young coconut, I recieved a call form Melvene, who was in great distress, "oh my God Ashruf, I locked myself een!". Through my laughter, I managed to convey that I would come back ad give her my keys. Supremely embarassed, Melvene asked me not to tell anyone. Of course, I threatened to put the story up on the blog (which very few people from battambang read anyway)..and have now followed through with my threat. Ah life, aint it wonderful?

Saturday, May 16, 2009

The week that was

Warning; this blog will contain several disjointed blog-entries:

1. I was propositioned last weekend by a man-woman on the way home at 11:30 PM. At a distance it looked like there were two khmer girls walking in the park, then, as the distance shortened, I realized that they were dressed like nasty nasty hookers. Then, when I got even closer, the man-woman asked me where I was going and if I wanted "sexy-massage". SICK!! I felt gross just being asked that.

2. Battambang had a sweet teaching campaign. We went around and xplained the Baha'i Faith to a bunch of peoples, and they recieved it well, and are gonna join us in the daunting task of unifying mankind, and uplifting the peeps of the world!

3. I went down to Phnom Penh again, with Quddus this time. Got my Dad and bonne-Mere a present (for all the times I couldn't get them one before), and Quddus bought himself a camera.

4. I went to the only shopping mall with escalators in Phnom Penh, and Quddus showed me where he buys movies, and we played several games of DOTA. Which is both the epitomy of nerd and as a result, great fun.

5. It's decided, I love passionfruit. everyday that I've eaten one has seemed surreally exciting and joyous. Passionfruit is my new drug of choice.

6. We got to stay at Beattie's place, and drive her moto around. This has been GREAT fun. We were consequently pulled over by the police becuase I am white (and we possibly had our lights on) and had our first Cambodian currupt cop experience! The guy actually took my license, and then told me that I had to either pick it up at the police station, or pay the cops right there to get it back. In an uncharacteristic act of defiance (since my sense of justice was insulted), I grabbed my license back, pointed to the "handicap international" sticker on my helmet (since I know that HI works with the traffic police), and told the guy that I was claling the head of HI to get clarification before I payed anything. In reality, I called my QC advisor, Ryan Duly, who listed the three possible lines of action when stopped by the police:
1) you skillfully negotiate your release.
2) You neotiate a (hopefully) small payment.
3) You tell them you're calling the chief of police

I had apprently pulled a mashup of 1) and 3), which did, in fact, deliver us from the greedy claws of corruption. In fact, they relesead us as soon as I started describing the situaiton to Ryan.

7. I had some espressos. Hoorah!

Saturday, May 9, 2009

SRD and Music

Yesterday my Dad and a guy named Sayed Al-Junid came up to Battambang to prime its inhabitants about the idea of engaging in a discourse (Keith, an ex-wildlife biologist, came to see the presentations). The main idea is to get groups of people to engage various sectors to talk about the conceptual frameworks within which they operate. Basically, getting diffeerent sectors to do some soul-searching and find out what the assumptions are they they are operating on; socratic philosphy for organizations...or something of the sort.

The presentations were great and the new concept of development, which proposes a very integrated approach, is pretty exciting for a development novice such as myself.

I also bought a guitar yesterday. It cost $20, but the nice old chinese lady gave me a $1 discount. This is, I assume, becuae I bought a badminton raquette from her before with seng-tchie (who spoke some mandarin with her)...and she now considers me an honorary recipient of the "chinese discount". I discovered, a while ago, that chinese businesspeople will not budge, unless the buyer is chinese, in which case they show solidarity by providing token discounts. Lovely.

While my guitar skills have failed ot improve beyond the depth (or even the scope) of the afore-posted video, I am keen to learn new chords and, eventually, songs. I also intend to train myself to switch cords swiftly, so that it sounds like music instead of 'a collection of badly-strummed chords'.

I rode to the CORDE building today, one hand on my bicycle steering, one hand grasping my guitar. On the girly bike that I bought, I imagine I looked particularly spectactular (spectacular here meaning "of, or pertaining to a spectacle" [aka making a scene], as opposed to the more positive and flattering vernacular).

I feel energized today, and have decided to come in and work even though its a sunday. I figure I should really 'hoist the sails' while the wind is blowing.

Hope y'alls enjoying life,

Ashraf.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Quddus' birthday.

Tons of fun last night right after I arrived on the bus. Eating pizzas, making jokes, celebrating the passage of time - made me realize that it'd been a while since I'd had such an earnestly enjoyable social dinner. Also, how cool is Quddus? the guy treated everyone else to dinner on his birthday!


May 6th:

While having a shower, I was running through what to wear to work today, white pants, green shirt, blue rubber sandals?? My sandalos don't seem to fit the rest of my attire, but I've decided to continue wearing them for one reason (also realized this morning): my new bicycle is called a "crocodile", and my sandals are "gators". I was tremendously more excited than I should have been about this, most minor of all coincidences. It made me feel somewhat like Mr.Bean, in that he owns cool small things, and loves how cool they are.

On a more worthy note, my friend, Oudum the coconut guy, met a khmer-speaking Baha'i on the weekend, and is now all about the Faith. Even though this will likely not result in discounted coconuts, it was still pretty exciting news.

Also, CORDE is so cool, they've decided to buy the masters program a laptop, and, I get to make a budget for the program for the rest of the year. I'm tottally getting a whiteboard and some markers so I can map out the program in my favorite way. That's one thing computers lack - real space and perspective (but just watch, google is monitoring this blog, and they'll release a white-board sized screen in a year!).
Two things:
1. I got to eat a street-waffle
2. I got to roll with the gangstas

1. I was out for a walk on my last day in Phnom Penh, going to pick up an ill laptop. My long-legged pace was faster than that of the burdened hawker, pushing his cart in front of me. I think the quickness of my pace frightened him a bit (as I had been gaining on him for a while. So he stops and turns to see who is following him. When he sees the shiny-whiteness of my skin, he jumps on the opportunity to sell me a waffle. Unbenkownst to this fortunate young man, I, of all random foreigners, have been patiently waiting for the day when fate would smile on me and deliver into my grasp an authentic street waffle. Yesterday was that day. 1000 riels and a few steps later, both the hawker and myself were happily about our business.

The waffle was like eating air encased in sugar, with hints of flour and egg.

2. Rolling with the gangstas
The Bus up to battambang offered me a special bus driver. This guy was like a greyhound bus driver from the 70's (if it was even a bus company then). He was great: Giant aviators, work clothes worn like he was born in them, cigarette hanging out the side of his mouth at every stop. Too cool. Then, he only got cooler when he showed his khmer dj skills over the bus's sound system.

Listen to this, and be reminded of the deep bluesy-folksy clasicness of it.



Now imagine it dubbed in khmer. SO GOOD! In between my sleeps, I was highly entertained by the most gangsta of all Capitol Tours bus drivers.


Somehow, driving back to Battambang this time felt like traveling to Cambodia for the first time.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Phnom Penh

Since my return to the glorious past in Phnom Penh, I remembered why I had such a good time - cool peeps, nice places to eat, and a sweet house.

This time, I also got to drive Jarnah's honda chaly (28 year old bike!) - and eat pre-peeled rambutans while walking around lucky's supermarket.

The trip was, however, primarily focused on business...and by business I mean money, and by money, I mean grants. This was a good two days (monday and tuesday) of meeting other NGO people, making some connections, and getting a sketch in my mind of what the grant-application field looks like for education programs. I thought it'd be hard to go door-to-door inquiring about grants, but everyone was friendly, and we sometimes had multiple contacts in a NGO. The most positive thus far was the canadian cooperation office director. He told us about their small grants program, which had thematic areas that we weren't directly involved in. So i asked him instead if he could ask CIDA to help us out with a long-term education grant. He paused, looked off into the distance for a sec, then was like, "yeah, we can. I'll ask the CIDA represntative to visit, and maybe put education as a focus!" He's our new friend.


Saturday, May 2, 2009

the last post

k, the last post was called "mayday, mayday" it was supposed to be about my may1st trip down to Phnom Penh, but instead, it warped into PP vs. BB. My apologies.

May Day was cool , the staff and students of CORDE did some laborious service projects to celebrate. I arrived late, because Quddus, Enoch (Q's cousin) and I decided to make a scrumptious breakfast. Check out the breakfast in the video., and the service projects in pics below.


So I gets on the bus to head down to Phnom Penh, and, just like every other time, wonder who I am going to be seated beside. Turns out to be a young khmer guy, but he was counting the seat numbers in English, so I noted that there was a chance we could have some conversation on the way to Phnom Penh. We both failed to introduce ourselves when he first arrived. Do you ever notice how , once you've failed to greet someone, finding an opportunity to make introductions is a hassle and a pain? I mean, I was unconcerned whether I talked to him or not, but I like to talk people on the bus, and much prefer even minor conversation to the awkwardness of siting beside someone, asking them to move over so you can get out, etc., and not even being introduced.

Luckily, I had bought some mentos.


I pulled out my mentos, pooed two into my hand, and immediately into my mouth, and then I decided to offer some to my khmer neighbor. He was on the phone, and totally shocked, but super-happy about the mentos, ever since then, we were friends. It turns out he's a deputy-governor of a district near batambang, and he specializes in educaiton, information, and culture. So we talked edcaiton, and he's a law PhD student, so we talked politics. Apparently the ministry of the interior has lots of power in Cambodia, they control the poilice, the military, and the military police, so he otld me that I could call him if I ever needed some help while in and around batambang. Cool! Then, right before arriving in Phnom Penh, he asked me if I play any sport, and I was like "well, I played a bit of badminton" and he was like "in batambang? where?" so I described the place, and it turns out he plays there everyday, and we just missed each other on timing or something like that. I met lots of other big-wigs at the bamdinton coutts, and am starting to think that badminton is the cambodian golf.

I also had a great night of chess, sheesha, and grape-juice with neissan. We covered all the happenings since I'd departed for the malaysian adventure, and, he finally gave me the image of a game we'd played on his laptop. Titled "The last draw":

sidenote: I've been attacked by bugs recently, I don't know what it is, but they all seem to be jumping/flying right at my head! I was about to go to sleep in battambang, I looked up to see medium-sized bug on the floor, facing me. It looked at me, I at it, and then it just spread its wings, and sped towards my head!! What kind of silly bug does that? really? Then just this evening (Happy 12th day of RIdvan!) I took the garbage out, and had a giant bumble-bee-ish thing DIVEBOMB me. I had to actually duck and dodge to stay alive. They're after me, I have no idea why, but they're out to get me, and I can feel it....so if I don't post for a few days, you can assume I've been brutally slain by kamikaze cambodian bugs.

"Mayday Mayday"

Life has a way of getting busy all of a sudden, and it is often true that, "when it rains it pours". (Either often true, or a completely tautological statement, depending on how you go about defining "pours".) Find an example of raining and pouring below.


I am writing this from the relatively opulent haven of my old residence in Phnom Penh. I've been kept busy at the new jobula, and am still riding the wave of excitement about doing work that I haven't yet done - with the expectation that my excitement will likely wane once I wade ino the work. Oh how pristine the lake looks before you jump in, and how cold and large is seems once you're swimming!

The last coupla days in battambang have been interesting to say the least: I met a prospective masters student, and realized just how much work I have to do; I decided to try and live in the house where I sleep, and realized just how much stuff I need to buy; I wore a sweet belt-buckle to work, and realized just how cool it is to live in batmanbang. Since we're on the topic, lets commence part 1 of Battambang vs. Phnom Penh.
NOTE: this will be an assessment for my life only, since it's all I really know.





Pros of Phnom Penh:
Sweet house, with a big bed, a gym, a pool, air-conditioning, p-units, a cleaning lady, meals cooked for me, and a WIDE variety of eateries and cafes...and fast internet.

Cons of Phnom Penh:
No cool development jobs, lots of traffic, fast-paced lifestyle, fairly irritating moto and tuk-tuk drivers, hard to get around.

Pros of Batmanbang:
cool name, super-chill lifestlye and people, my own place, a bicycle, easy to get a round, cheap food, pleasant locals (and foreigners), sweet job, lots of opportunity. CHEAP MANGOES. badminton.

Cons of battambang:
cockroaches, rats, no bed, no fridge, no other appliances (except the toaster oven I just bought), no furniture, no real source of income, no internet in the home, no laptop (it stays with the p-units), loud 3-day wedding sand funerals, lots of dust in the air, lots of heat,


So far, Phnom Penh is winning for easy-nice-life-factor, but Battambang is the harsh land of opportunity...and it is quickly softening. I will explore some of these pros and cons, and likely some additional ones in part two, where I give you a qualatative taste of life in PP and BB.